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Wish
List and Future Big Projects
The
best hobbies are impossible to "finish". There is always something
more you'd like to beg, buy, borrow, build, or steal! Here is a list of
projects and products I'd like to someday add to my shop. These are the
"big" projects, meaning they are more ambitious, harder to do,
and will take longer. There is also a page
of smaller projects and a page for
Engine Projects.
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Custom
Mauser Rifle

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It's my plan in the relatively
near future to build a pair of custom Mauser actioned rifles. A
friend of the family got interested in doing this, and we decided
to all work together. I'm going to build two and give one to my
son. In fact, I'm hoping he'll help out. I haven't gotten far, so
the project is still on the Wish List page. However, I did try my
hand at designing a gun stock for
the rifles in Rhino 3D:
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Collet Chuck
Made from Automatic Transmission Planetary Gear Set

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From the category of Amazing Stuff, I present this 5C
collet chuck that a fellow from Practical Machinist named "j
king" made. It uses a planetary gearset from a transmission
to gear down the handwheel in a compact way and tighten the thread
on the collet. The handwheel is nicer than the keyed 5C chuck I've
got (and which I still need to make a backplate for!). Other detail
notes: there is an O-ring to keep the handwheel from rattling, and
there is a sleeve pressed into the small gear. Since the transmission
gears are hardened, the sleeve was necessary to allow threading
for the 5C collet. It is brazed into place. The workmanship and
sheer beauty of it is amazing:

The component parts. Note there is a gear
barely visible in the righthand part, and the little gear in the
middle is threaded for the 5C collet...

Here is a better view of the gear mounted
in the chuck...

The D1-3 backplate, also a beauty...

Handwheel looks CNC'd, but was done manually...

Threaded for the 5C collet...

Thrust bearing inside to keep from over tightening...

Here it is assembled and ready for use...
Looks like he's using that thing on a Monarch 10EE
lathe, another really nice piece of work.
I purchased a gearset on eBay and am awaiting a time
to get my own chuck made.
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Texas Smoker

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This is more of a big fabrication project than a machining project, but it is metal and it is near and dear to my heart:

Check out my project page for the Texas Smoker... |
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High Speed NMTB
30 Spindle for the IH Mill

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As part of Industrial Hobbies going out
of business sale, I had the opportunity to purchase a #30 taper
spindle that fits the mill for $65. The recommended angular contact
bearings to go with the spindle were another $100 from McMaster-Carr.
I like the idea of the #30 taper for a variety of reasons including:
- Greater Rigidity than R8
- Faster tool changes due to better ejection and
less fooling around to line up the drive pin of the R8. The #30
taper uses a couple of big dogs to drive the toolholder that are
real easy to see and line up compared to the hidden and fairly small
drive pin of an R8.
- Greater potential to create an automatic toolchanger
for the mill. A #30 taper and a powered drawbar can act as a toolchanger
under CNC control if you simply provide a tray of tools in fixed
positions on the table.
Perhaps the biggest reason, however, was my desire
to convert my mill spindle to run at higher speeds using a belt
drive. Out of the box it maxes out at 1600 rpm. With a bigger motor,
you can run it to 3200 rpm. That's still pretty slow when you're
trying to cut aluminum. My copy of ME Pro wants to see 3900 rpm
on a 1/2" end mill with aluminum, and this jumps to 9200 rpm
with a 1/8" end mill that I might use for fine profiling. I
don't even want to talk about what's need to do engraving!
Given how slowly most of my projects proceed,
I decided that buying one of these spindles from IH and building
a whole new belt driven mill head around it was likely to be a better
approach than trying to modify the gear head. Taking the latter
course would very likely leave me stranded without a working mill
for a long time, with much assembly/disassembly back and forthing
until I got it right. Building a separate head just requires me
to build a box that is rigid and allows me to properly mount the
spindle bearings and the motor, with a timing belt from one to the
other. I would dispense with a quill altogether as this head is
intended for CNC use and dropping the quill would allow me to make
everything that much more rigid and accurate as well as simpler.
At least that's the theory!




Comparison of a #30 taper
holder and an R8...
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Antikythera Mechanism

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I've always had a great
interest in Astronomy, and I read
with great interest recent articles about the Antikythera
Mechanism, which was apparently an ancient orrery or simulator
of motions of the heavenly bodies. The machine, which was constructed
circa 80 BC, could represent the motions of most heavenly bodies
known in its time using a clockwork consisting of 37 gears. Such
a device seems far more intriguing to me than simply making a clock.
Here is one fairly fanciful
3D representation of a modern equivalent to the Antikythera Mechanism:

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I've been keeping my nose to the
ground looking for ideas on a tool and cutter grinder. It's ridiculously
easy to dull a cutter, and while they're reasonably cheap on eBay
(say $10 for a nice US Made 1/2" endmill), it's even cheaper
to sharpen them. Not to mention drill bits need constant sharpening,
and custom cutters are easily made with the right grinder. I've
looked a little bit at the Deckel's and their clones that come up
on eBay, but they want an awful lot of money for one. Then there
are a variety of cutter grinders that various HSM's have made over
the years. These look like fascinating projects that would be great
fun to undertake!
Here is my take on how to create
a Deckel clone from an inexpensive Harbor Freight Tool Grinder and
a "Universal Vise" acquired on eBay:

I call it the "Beijing Deckel"...
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Sheet Metal Fabrication Tools

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In fact, the whole sheet
metal tool arsenal would be handy to have at hand. An English wheel,
slip rolls, etc., etc.. I did come across some photos of this beautiful
pan and box brake, which was built based on an article in "Projects
in Metal." I ordered their book so that I would have these
plans available when I'm ready to jump in. The article in the book
is excellent, and there are a number of other projects to covet
there as well (like the precision cutter grinder and tilting table
for milling). Order "Metalworking, Book Two, The Best of Projects
in Metal." This particular brake was designed by Glenn Wilson.




Very nice, eh?
There's
a fellow on one of the boards who has an interesting wrinkle on
this stuff. He's built a hydraulic press with a tubing bending attachment
that is CNC controlled. Basically, you enter an angle, step on the
pedal, and the machine bends the tubing to that angle. You could
imagine that the electronics involved must be simple. A PIC controller,
an encoder for shaft position (to measure how many degrees we have
gone), and some sort of solenoid valve for the hydraulic cylinder.
It's interesting to consider whether some of these other bending
tools could be so equipped in order to make it easy to produce repeatable
operations to a particular design spec. I'd have to think it is
very possible. The same fellow suggests that the expensive part
in all of this is the hydraulic pump, and that if one were to build
such tools one should use quick disconnects to share that pump with
several machines and thereby lower the overall costs. Good idea!
Update:
I have now purchased a 45 ton air-over-hydraullic press, so I'll
likely look to make a press brake attachment.
One more possibility is to build an electromagnetic sheet metal brake, similar to a MagnaBrake. Check out my page for ideas.
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Shop
Cranes

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Warning: Heavy lifting is inherently
a very dangerous business. Injuries and property damage are common.
Make sure you know exactly what you're doing before attempting something
like this!
This one seems endlessly
useful around the shop. There's always something big and heavy to
be moved or repositioned. By making it out of aluminum, it becomes
much easier for one person to assemble and disassemble or move around:

Using an aluminum gantry crane to move a mill
into position...

Close-up of the I-Beam Support...

Travelling gantry would be very helpful building
my Texas Smoker!
Related Links
Bushman:
Commerical cranes of many types.
JRouche's
Gantry Crane Plans on Home Shop Machinist
Practical
Machinist Thread on Gantry Cranes
Spanco: Commercial
cranes of all descriptions.
Synthesis
Engineering: Plans for building gantry cranes in the home shop.
Wallace
Cranes: Commercial cranes of all types recommended by Forest
Addy. Their aluminum tri-adjustable cranes are unusually clever.
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Machinery Dollys

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An alternative to the
Gantry Crane would be a machinery dolly system like this one. Slide
the toe under and jack it up and you are ready to move. I could
envision making it so that one could attach a platform between two
dollies as well. Those pictured are very similar to a product called
"Rol-A-Lift"
that one could buy or rent if you didn't want to invest in making
a dolly system.

Moving in a Shaper...


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Lathe Shaper
Attachment

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Cutting keyways is painful
if your only approach is racking the cross slide back and forth
by hand. It would be awesome to build a shaper attachment that fits
a QCTP for doing lightweight keyway cutting under power. Here is
a pneumatic unit one fellow (Evan Williams from HSM board) is designing
for the purpose:

And here is his hand powered slotter:


I did order
a "left-handed Veeblefetzer" off the web that I think
could serve as a component for a shaper attachment:

The
left-handed Veeblefetzer...
I'm thinking
I'll build a manual shaper attachment first, and worry about a power
unit later.
Here is a clever design for a slotter
that just moves the compound on its dovetail:

The round "faceplate"
is being used as a dividing head to allow broaching an internal
gear on a Wankel motor project...

Dividing head is indexed
via the pin that is on the follower rest mounts...
Related Links:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/adeptshaper/index.html:
They used to make these!
http://www.duwaynesplace.com/hand_shaper_project.html
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4th CNC Axis
for the Mill

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As I write this, I do
not yet have my mill converted to
CNC, but the ambition quickly gets ahead of the means to deliver.
The photo shows the components of a stepper motor conversion of
a rotary table. Lots of clever ideas there:
The cylinder has a "tophat
flange" that catches on a groove cut in the square NEMA plate
for the motor. In effect, the motor's flange sandwiches the square
flange with the cylinder bringing it all together neatly. The other
clever move was to machine the shaft adapter so it can serve as
one half of an Oldham-style coupler. This was a really nicely done
conversion.

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Toolpost Grinder

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There have been several times when I've wished for a toolpost grinder
to finish a shaft just right and to close tolerances. I debate whether
to buy a used Dumore or Themac on eBay or try to fabricate one as
a project. Simple ones are really easy to make and just involve
lashing a suitable Dremel or hand grinder to the post in some way.
More complex versions involve fabricating a spindle and replicating
the style of the commercial TP grinders. I am really tempted to
work on a spindle for one. It would be a good warmup should I ever
choose to make a more ambitious spindle, perhaps for a lathe or
a mill.
Toolpost Grinder Project Page (Just
More Ideas and Pictures for Now)!

Router-based TP Grinder: A Bit Heavier Duty!
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Welding Table
Delusions of Grandeur

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I need some kind of welding
table in my shop so I'm not just sitting on floor trying to manage.
This is a really nifty example, though I'd be afraid I'd mar it
up given the state of my welding skills:


It goes
up and down on hydraulic struts and has lots of fixturing holes.
Very cool!
On the other
hand, how about building a welding shop on a car lift so it can
rise up out of the way?


I also designed
an intermediate form that would be a rolling table with shelf space
for the equipment underneath:

My concern
for this solution is that the cart will be extremely heavy. More
thought needed on which path I will choose!
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Souping Up a
Drill Press

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The lowly drill press is a handy gadget, but mine could use some
help. Here is a whole page of ideas for
souping it up.
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Belt
Sander for Knives

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I've wanted to build a disc sander with one of the
motors I have laying around, and I can't see why I wouldn't also
put one of these nifty belt sanders on the other side of the arbor.
There are lots of commercial specimens available to study, and
some even sell parts to build your own:
http://www.stephenbader.com/
There are also some articles scattered around the
web telling of folks who built their own:
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=4436

Another similar grinder made with lots of heavy
steel plate...

And one made of aluminum. Note the handle for
belt changing!
http://groups.msn.com/HomeorshopmadeGrinders:
An MSN group dedicated to these machines.

A cute small version...
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Heat Treating
Oven

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I have been interested in heat
treating metals for a long time, and finally sat down to do a
little web research on how to build a heat treat furnace. Industrial
PID controllers are readily available on eBay cheap, and the rest
of the materials required are not expensive either. Here is one
example of a shop made oven:

Shopmade
Heat Treat Oven...
It's also possible to convert a
ceramic kiln to this purpose. The ovens are typically lined with
fire brick, although I have also heard of some people using thermal
ceramic fiber blocks from a company called Vesuvius, and also
a material that comes in board form called "Marinite".
Other useful materials to know about include high
temp sodium silicate firebrick cement and refractory
mortar (found by yours truly while reading about pizza ovens).
Links about making your own
furnace:
The
Shopmade Heat Treat Oven Pictured Above: A nice project
with lots of photos.
http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/752668/post/775813/hl//:
Not much on pix, but some good tips and techniques. For example,
there is a high temperature mortar/calk available at Home Depot
to seal the bricks that is good to 2000 degrees. You want a "K"
type thermocouple for this kind of project.
HSM
Thread on Materials: OhioDeere has built some commercial heat
treating ovens and has some sage remarks there as well.
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